At Work

I consider the martingale collar a dog trainer’s best kept secret.   Very few people have heard of it and understand its benefits.  I often suggest it for dogs taking my  therapy dog training classes and bring the sample pictured at the left to show people what it looks like.

The martingale provides the little extra control needed for many dogs in early stages of training.  Rest assured, it does not operate like a choke collar.  It gives a gentle squeeze – not a choke.  And, unlike the traditional snap buckle collar, you’re not tugging on the dog’s neck.

Because it’s not a popular training collar, it may be hard to find in pet supply stores – and, I have found, there are a few varieties on the market…  only ONE is correct.  Here’s what you should be looking for:  as seen in the above photo, there are two loops.  The top loop with two rings goes around the dog’s neck and the bottom loop with one ring is where the leash is attached.  It is of the utmost importance that the neck loop be adjustable (see slider on the right side of the neck loop in the photo).  The slider is used to adjust the neck loop so that the two rings are separated by about three inches around the dog’s neck.   People often make the mistake of making the neck loop too large, leaving the two rings coming together.  In so doing, the martingale is useless.

How the martingale works…  provided the two rings on the neck loop are separated by about three inches, when the trainer gives a slight pull on the lead to indicate direction, the dog receives a gentle squeeze on the neck – as opposed to a tug on the neck which a traditional snap bucket collar would give.  Results are excellent.  I use the martingale on any of my dogs who need extra control.

A word of caution, however…  the martingale should not be kept on your dog’s neck at all times, as you might keep on a traditional collar.  It is possible for the leash loop to get caught on something when your dog is outside playing or when crated – for example.  The martingale should be put on for training, loose lead walking, or when you need the security of a non-slip collar.

Extra bonus – can’t slip out…  The martingale is often referred to as the Greyhound collar because – when fitted properly – a dog cannot slip out of a martingale collar as they can with a traditional collar.  Most Greyhounds and Whippets sport martingales so they won’t slip out and run, run, run…  I have used martingales on my therapy dogs when we used to visit a facility in the city.  They didn’t need the control of a martingale – but I needed the peace of mind that they couldn’t accidentally slip their collar in the middle of the city.

Trained therapy dog James ready to head out visiting

A dog that is going to do therapy dog work must walk at his owner’s side on a loose lead. Commonly termed heeling, I often find this to be the hardest command for dogs to master.

When I teach a beginners therapy dog training class, I stress the importance of the Basic Six:  Sit, Down, Stay, Come, Leave It, and Heel. When visiting, the handler may want his dog to Sit next to a patient; or go into a Down while the handler talks with a staff member.  The Leave It command could save your dog from eating medication accidentally dropped on the floor, or from devouring a plate of food that has not yet been removed from a patient’s room.  Your dog should always Come to you when asked to do so…  99% of the time you are visiting with your dog in a facility she will be on leash which you will have held in your hand.  But, a situation might occur where you need to drop the lead for a moment, ask your dog to go into a Sit, Stay or a Down, Stay, then ask your dog to Come when called.  The handler needs to have complete control over his dog when visiting.

A well behaved, well trained therapy dog walks into a facility on a loose lead. Of the basic six, this is the most necessary.  A therapy dog simply can’t head into a facility ahead of her handler at the end of a six foot lead (add on another two feet when the handler’s arm is extended full length as the dog is tugging on the lead).  If your dog doesn’t walk at your side on a loose lead going into a facility and while you are visiting within the facility, this is a sign that your dog really isn’t ready to be making therapy dog visits.

Training a dog to Heel requires perseverance and consistency. Some dogs catch on quickly – within a couple of weeks of practice.  Others require much more time and repetition.  I have had both kinds of dogs, myself.

Annie ready to head out on a loose-lead walk

Currently, Annie is the dog I’ve been training to walk on a loose lead by my side… and it has been a challenging process!  In fact, we’ve been concentrating on this command since January!  Suddenly, June was the magic month…  Voila!  She had it!  All the little tips and techniques our trainer had told us to try have finally clicked. It’s pure joy to take a walk with Annie now.  Looking back over the past six months, because we had a severe winter, walks outside on the snowy, icy roads were limited.  Training took place in our Barn – a place with no distractions.  In this space she excelled.  But, when springtime came, walks outside meant freshly uncovered ground which had been blanketed by several feet of snow throughout the winter.  Annie has a powerful nose.  Everything was smelling very good to this Sporting dog girl.    She could have cared less about listening to me.  We were back to square one!  Once we had good weather though, all walks were outside and took place every single day. Consistency really makes a difference – and perseverance.  Just don’t give up until things click.  Then, of course, keep practicing!